Designer Samant Chauhan On His Collection 'First Breath' At Lakmé Fashion Week: "I Believe Garments Should Tell Stories"

Since launching his label in 2005, designer Samant Chauhan has carved an enviable niche in the Indian fashion industry. Known for his passion for indigenous textiles like the popular Bhagalpur silk and his inventive use of embroidery, Samant recently showcased his latest collection, 'First Breath', at Lakmé Fashion Week x FDCI 2025. The collection was a breathtaking rendition of styles and silhouettes, marked by a clever interplay of light and darkness.

In an interview with HerZindagi, the fashion maestro shared insights into his collection, discussed his design philosophy, and opened up about his personal style and much more.

Read edited excerpts below:

Q. What was the inspiration behind your collection ‘First Breath’?

‘First Breath’ emerges from the interplay of darkness and light — a sculptural meditation on the human form, where structure embodies strength and embellishment becomes a quiet act of resistance. The collection reflects the unseen struggles of our time — the silent battles of identity, the relentless hum of consumerism, and the looming weight of environmental decline.

Q. You’re known for weaving narratives into your garments. What story are you telling through this collection?

This collection tells a story of resilience and reflection — a dialogue between control and chaos, strength and softness, the dark realities we confront and the luminous world we aspire to create. It’s about finding beauty and hope in fragility, and about the power of creation in a fractured world.

Q. You’ve always championed handloom and indigenous crafts. Could you walk us through some of the key techniques or textile traditions featured in this line?

While the collection leans toward sculptural couture, the foundation remains rooted in Indian craftsmanship. Architectural tailoring in rich silks is complemented by hand-set crystals and intricate hand-embroidery — symbolising light emerging through structure. Every surface treatment carries the quiet energy of the artisan’s touch.

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Q. What is your design philosophy?

My design philosophy lies in creating strength through structure and emotion through detail. I believe garments should tell stories — of time, craft, and identity. For me, couture is not just about opulence; it’s about introspection, transformation, and truth.

Q. How long did it take to conceptualise and bring this particular collection to life?

The collection evolved over several months — beginning as a conceptual reflection on our times and taking shape through countless conversations between design and craft. Every silhouette and embellishment was refined slowly, allowing both structure and softness to coexist naturally.

Q. Describe your personal style.

My personal style is minimal, structured, and deeply textured — much like my work. I gravitate toward pieces that balance form and function, with quiet detailing that speaks louder than overt ornamentation.

Q. Which celebrity would you like to dress in the future?

I’d love to dress Amitabh Bachchan — he embodies timeless elegance, discipline, and an understated power that transcends generations. His presence carries both strength and grace, qualities I deeply resonate with in my design philosophy.

Q. What are your thoughts on sustainability in fashion?

Sustainability, to me, begins with intention and longevity. It’s about creating pieces that hold emotional value — garments people keep, cherish, and pass on. Working with handwoven fabrics and supporting artisan communities is my way of ensuring the ecosystem of craft remains alive and regenerative.

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Q. After this show, what can we next expect from your label? Are you exploring new materials, collaborations, and perhaps a new direction altogether?

We’ve recently opened a new store in Khan Market and are now preparing to open another in Mehrauli. Having worked extensively with Middle Eastern and international clients, our next focus is on strengthening our presence in India. We’re planning to expand into retail and connect more deeply with the Indian clientele — we want to create experiences and collections that celebrate their individuality and evolving sense of luxury.

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