
With the winter season here, your skin becomes dry and flaky. However, don't fret. A technique that promises to repair your skin barrier and seal in moisture, has gone viral, called the Skincare Sandwich Method. This dermatologically-approved layering technique is the ultimate form of self-care for anyone looking to step up their active game while keeping their skin barrier pristine.
We consulted top experts, Dr Rohit Kothari, Assistant Professor of Dermatology at Dr DY Patil Medical College Hospital and Research Centre, Pimpri, Pune, Dr Anindita Sarkar, Chief Medical Officer, Clinikally, Gurugram and Lalita Arya, CEO, Dermapuritys, Delhi, to breakdown the skincare sandwich method that is transforming winter routines.
Despite the delicious name, Lalita Arya explains that it has nothing to do with food and everything to do with smart, strategic application of skincare.
"At its core, the method involves 'cushioning' a strong active ingredient, most commonly retinol (a type of retinoid), between two hydrating layers. It's a structured approach to ensure potency is delivered gently," Arya notes.
Dr Rohit Kothari breaks down the three essential layers:
1. First layer (the base): Apply a lightweight, hydrating moisturiser or essence to clean skin. This creates a protective buffer and ensures your skin is prepped.
2. Middle layer (the filling): Apply a thin, even layer of your potent active ingredient, such as retinol, exfoliating acid or benzoyl peroxide.
3. Third layer (the seal): Apply a second layer of moisturiser, often a slightly richer one, to lock in hydration and further buffer the active.
"This technique is a dermatologist-approved way to help the skin adjust to strong ingredients while keeping the skin barrier intact and well-hydrated," says Dr Kothari.

The ultimate goal of the skincare sandwich method is efficacy without compromise. For those who have suffered from the dreaded 'retinol uglies': redness, peeling and dryness, this technique offers a stylish solution.
"By cushioning the active ingredient between two layers of moisturiser, it significantly reduces irritation, peeling, redness and dryness, an advantage particularly relevant for first-time retinoid users," notes Dr Anindita Sarkar.
Here are its key advantages:
1. Minimises irritation: According to Dr Kothari, the dual layers of moisture significantly reduce direct contact with the skin, minimising common side effects like burning, flaking, and redness, especially for sensitive skin types.
2. Boosts hydration: Arya highlights that the layering helps the skin stay "plump and nourished", preventing transepidermal water loss and counteracting drying effect of actives.
3. Prevents pigmentation: Dr Sarkar emphasises that for Indian skin, which is more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) f, the technique lowers the risk of flare-ups and unwanted pigmentation.
4. Allows for consistency: By mitigating side effects, Arya explains that this method makes it easier to use potent actives more regularly, which is the key to achieving better long-term anti-ageing results.
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While this method is a dream for beginners and those with dry or sensitive complexions, it's not a one-size-fits-all solution.
1. Have very oily or acne-prone skin: Applying two rich layers might feel too heavy and lead to clogged pores.
2. Use prescription retinoids: Always consult your dermatologist. They may advise direct application for optimal effectiveness, as buffering could overly dilute the prescription's strength.
3. Have built-up tolerance: If your skin no longer experiences irritation from an active, the skincare sandwich method is no longer necessary, and you can revert to a single moisturiser layer to maximise the active's full potency.
Overall, the skincare sandwich method is more than just a trend; it's an elevated approach to active-based skincare, proving that you never have to sacrifice comfort for results.
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Image courtesy: Freepik
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