The Jewellery Archive: Pahadi Nathuli To Maharashtrian Nath, 5 Nose Rings In India That Hold Cultural History
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A nose ring in India is never just jewellery. It is geography, marital status, tribe, and tradition blend into gold and tell a story from across the different regions in India. From the heavy, temple-inspired Nathuli of Himachal and Uttarakhand to the pearl-crowned Maharashtrian Nath, the journey of nath tells you how one ornament changed its meaning every 100 kms.
Traditions Naths Across India:
In today's segment of The Jewellery Archive, we bring you some of the finest naths that are worn by women across different parts of India.
1. Pahadi Nathuli
Uttarakhandi and Himachali nath will fall under the umbrella of Pahadi nath, but it should be noted that there are some differences between them, despite their similar patterns. Talking about Uttarakhandi nathuli, they are oversized and perfectly circular, often covering a large portion of the cheek. Their designs also feature vibrant Meenakari work, adorned with enamel painting in red, green, and blue and dense rows of pearls and gold beads strung along the outer ring. It is usually gifted by maternal uncle of the bride.
Coming to Himachali Nath, it looks similar to the Uttarakhandi one but has a few differences. Unlike Uttarakhandi Nathuli's perfect circular shape, it is usually shaped like a crescent moon, is comparatively smaller, and features elaborate floral patterns and bird silhouettes. Bollywood actress Yami Gautam honoured her culture at her wedding and wore a beautiful nath with her bridal attire.
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2. Rajputana Nathuri
Rajputana nathuri, also called Rajputi Nath or Rajasthani Nath, is the royal nose ring worn by women in Rajasthan. Not only is it an essential part of bridal jewelry and a symbol of marital grace, but it also has a deep historical legacy. It is heavily decorated with fine Kundan stones, Meenakari enamel work, pearls, and rubies with motifs like peacocks and floral centerpieces. The Rajputana nath has been shown several times in Bollywood, including period dramas like Padmavat and Jodhaa Akbar.
3. Maharashtrian Nath
Maharashtrian naths have distinctive features that instantly set them apart from the nose rings of the other regions in India. Even though it is smaller, it looks beautiful and features a crescent-shaped or oval shape, usually adorned with pearls and precious stones.
However, there are several types of Maharastrian naths as well including Peshwai Nath, Banu Nath, Gondhal Nath and Moti Nath. Peshwai nath has been in the Marathi culture since the Peshwa era, featuring several strands of silver beads strung together with colourful glass beads and gem stones.
Gondhal nath, named from Lord Shiva in Gondhal, features coloured glass, silver beads, and precious stones in the shape of religious symbols like gods. Coming to Moti Nath, it has unique designs and features flowers and different geometric shapes. Like the name suggests, the nath features small white motis and pearls too.
Meanwhile, Banu nath is similar to Peshwai nath but is more subtle if you want a comparatively smaller design.
4. South Indian Mookuthi
Mookuthi is a traditional South Indian nose pin or stud worn predominantly on the right nostril. This is minimal and unlike the heavy ring-and-chain setups of North Indian bridal wear. Usually worn in states like Tamil Nadu, Kerala, and Karnataka, it is often gifted to young girls. They come in different designs and are usually made up of gold and often set with precious stones like diamonds or rubies.
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5. Bengali Nath
Bengali nath is a traditional, elegant gold nose ring worn by brides to complete their classic wedding look. Primarily crafted in yellow gold, it features a circular ring adorned with delicate floral, geometric motifs, or filigree work. There are small seed pearls, Kundan, or tiny hanging latkans along with a fine chain.
Despite several new trends, the nath has never gone out of style. In India, the nose ring in India is not only about fashion, it is about identity, heritage and culture.
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- Can unmarried girls wear Nath?
- Yes. In South India, Himachal and tribal areas, unmarried girls wear small naths/mookuthis.
- Which state's Nath is most famous?
- Maharashtrian Moti Nath is the most famous and most recreated in India.
- Why is Himachali Nathuli so big and heavy?
- Himachali Nathuli is intentionally big to show prosperity and strength of Pahadi women.
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