Ralph Lauren Faces Backlash Over 'Zardozi' Embroidery: Netizens Say 'Name It When You Use It'

Once again, luxury brands have been making it to the headlines and facing backlash from the Indian audience as Ralph Lauren's latest runway look at New York Fashion Week showcased a beautiful gown with embellishments and intricate details. Critics are accusing Ralph Lauren of using Indian embroidery techniques and crafts of the embroidery and not even bothering to mention their names, but instead claiming them to be original embellishments.

Ralph Lauren's Embellishment Row

The American fashion house unveiled its Spring 2027 collection during the New York Fashion Week, with one of the most gorgeous pink evening gown particularly drawing the attention on social media. The dress was emroidered heavily with hand-applied embellishments, draped in viscose silk, making it a cinematic evening wear. But the brand did not mention anywhere in the post or collection that it was inspired by an Indian emroidery or taken from our embroidery technique - Zardosi.

What Is Zardosi Embroidery?

A 300-year old metallic thread embroidery tracing back to Persia before it made its way to India under Mughal patronage. Today, Zardosi is one of the protected craft, which is being registered under Geographical Indication tag in Lucknow and six neighbouring districts since 2013. More than 175,000 artists depend on this art form for their livelihood.

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Why Is Ralph Lauren Being Criticised? 

Fashion designer Prakhar Rao Singh Chandel was the first one ot call out this issue in an Instagram post, that the embellishments work used by Ralph Lauren is the traditional craft of Lucknow.

He added that Zardosi cluster covers several districts and supports large community of artists. He cristised the brands for using the crafts and not mentioning or embracing the names of people or community working hard behind it, and not the fashion brand for using such technique.

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He mentioned the line attributed to Ralph Lauren in the same post, that wanting each piece to feel as though it carries its own history and character. Whic led to the question of - whose history and whoe character? 

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In the post he also mentioned the last year's Prada controversy for Kolhapuri chappals, a Maharashtrian artwork. His argument was that Indian craft suddenly recieves a name only after people online start questioning its existence. Adding he said, “Name it when you use it. Not when you get caught”.

(Image credit: Instagram)

Stay tuned to read more such stories on Her Zindagi. 

(Note: This is a general infomration copy and no brand or designer's sentiments were hurt, but based solely on social media posts)