What Is Milia And How To Treat It: Experts Elucidate

The pursuit of glass skin can sometimes be interrupted by unwelcome guests: tiny, firm white spots that seem resistant to every spot treatment. Often mistaken for whiteheads, these are called milia. While harmless, they can be persistent. We tapped into the expertise of top dermatologists, Dr Chiranjiv Chhabra, Chief Dermatologist at Alive Wellness, and Dr Himanshu Kumar, Dermatologist at Formulo, to demystify these little keratin cysts aand uncover the best approach for clear skin.

What exactly is milia?

Milia are small, white or yellowish bumps, typically measuring 1 to 2 millimetres, that frequently cluster on the face, especially around delicate areas like the eyes, cheeks and nose.

Dr Chhabra explains that they form when keratin, a natural skin protein, becomes trapped beneath the skin's surface.

Unlike an aggressive zit, Dr Kumar notes that milia are not acne. "They are little cysts of trapped keratin and aren't linked to oil or bacteria." They present as firm, small white spots and rarely cause pain or redness.

Milia vs. Whiteheads: The Key Difference

According to Dr Chhabra, milia and whiteheads look similar, but they're quite different. "Whiteheads are a type of acne caused by clogged pores filled with oil and dead skin cells," he says, adding, "Milia, on the other hand, are tiny cysts that develop when dead skin becomes trapped under new skin growth."

Milia are firm to touch and don't pop easily like whiteheads. Trying to squeeze milia is not only ineffective but can lead to scarring.

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The Root Cause of Milia

Milia can affect anyone at any age, primarily because they are related to the natural or unnatural slowing of skin's cell renewal process. Milia can occur for several reasons, according to both dermatologists.

One common factor is skin damage from sources like sun exposure, burns, blisters, or even over-exfoliation, all of which can disrupt the skin's normal healing and shedding process.

Another key contributor is the consistent use of heavy creams, petroleum-based ointments, or oil-based skincare that can essentially trap dead skin cells.

Furthermore, a natural slowing of the skin's cell turnover due to aging or a simple lack of regular exfoliation allows dead skin to become trapped under fresh skin growth.

Dr Kumar also mentions that long-term use of steroid creams can occasionally contribute to their formation.

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How To Treat Milia

Milia are completely harmless and often resolve on their own as the skin naturally exfoliates. However, if they persist, targeted intervention is necessary. The cardinal rule from both experts is clear: Never try to squeeze or pop them at home, as this can cause scarring and hurt your skin.

Dr Chhabra suggests focusing on gentle exfoliation using mild alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic acid or lactic acid, to encourage the natural shedding process. It is also crucial to avoid thick or comedogenic creams that can trap dead skin.

For stubborn milia, both doctors agree that consulting a dermatologist is necessary. A professional can remove them safely with a simple in-office procedure within minutes. Alternatively, a dermatologist may prescribe topical treatments, such as retinoids, to help accelerate skin cell turnover.

Image courtesy: Freepik

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